Centro

Cecilia and Will took me to Centro on Tuesday. I'd been hearing them both talk about Centro with a sense of . . . well, dread is too strong a word. What comes to mind is something akin to the feeling Dorothy and her companions had when they set off to see the Wizard.

We were looking for fabric to upholster an ottoman that C will be using with her rocker when she nurses Baby Daniel. Armed with comfy shoes, umbrellas, a hand-drawn map of Centro, and bus fare, we set out on our adventure. An old shopping district close to the bus and ferry terminals in Niteroi, Centro covers an area about 6 by 8 city blocks. Every store is a 'specialty' store in which one item or group of items is sold. Baskets, metal bolts, hubcaps, herbs, wood furniture, manicures, jeans, tile, motorcycle repair, groceries, cafes, plastic containers; everything you could possibly put on a shopping list is available, but you just have to shop at a separate store for each item. Get the picture?

Our bus dropped us off under a large open-sided metal-roofed terminal where we embarked on foot through an even larger covered mall. Will headed for Mega Mate, a local chain that makes his favorite mate (MA chey)--a strong, cold, sweetened tea/citrus drink. With a bottle of cold water and a few Pao de Quiezo (PAOW dge KAY dgoo)--cheese rolls--under our belts, we exited the mall.

Right away, I heard women hawking their particular product or shop in loud mechanical tones. It seemed that Cecilia, Will, and I were the only people walking toward Centro; that everyone else was heading back to the buses. While we swam upstream, I immediately wished I had Will's camera. But when I expressed my regret to Will, he said, "It's better not to look more like a Gringa tourist than you already do. Besides," he added, "it would just get stolen." Then he cautioned me to keep my hand on my bag, and my bag in front of my body. Orientation complete!

Smells and sights and sounds surrounded us.
* weathered wood cart was filled with neat rows of citron-skinned guava
* fruits sliced with geometric precision revealed beautiful bright guava flesh
* cracked sidewalks invited pedestrians with shade
* surprisingly fresh breezes caressed
* steep, narrow, basket-lined stairs doubled back
* fresh-dried woven grasses were shaped into every imaginable object
* wide wood-planked floors creaked protests underfoot
* intersections coursed with small cars gray from dusty exhaust
* bright blue and red Pepsi awnings dominated one corner
* acrid smells of unknown origin made temporary assaults
* black spray paint tagged mottled salmon stucco
* random broken bottle mosaic in blues and greens invited my touch
* accelerating cement truck sputtered and spewed
* occasional low clouds of exhaust prompted temporary breath control
* miked barker, in his best deep DJ voice, announced a special on okra
* hardware store window harkened back to its 1950's origin
* bunched herbs delightfully filled the air with fresh basil, mints, and thyme
* jaywalking pedestrians dared approaching taxis and motorbikes
* marine-blue cafe patio promised a refreshing, quiet respite
* fresh bacalhao (codfish fritters) did not disappoint
* pouty-faced girl scowled and stomped away from dining parents
* shop keeper wiped her disappointed face and looked for prospects
* freakish masculine mannequin sported bikini top and Spanx
* fresh-faced salesgirl smiled in upscale paper shop
* citrus silk sequined sari fabrics beckoned
* pungent cigarette smoke drifted from sidewalk bar
* clear sea-green eyes flashed from striking cocoa-skinned face

I really enjoyed my trip to Centro. Will and Cecilia found a great fabric for the ottoman, and I had a fantastic adventure with them.

PS: While we were scouring the fabric warehouse for the best possible find, Will asked, "Mom, if we got separated, would you know which bus to take to get back to the apartment?" I assured him that I could find the terminal and get on a Route 47 bus to Icarai. But it wasn't until several hours later, when we three finally did board the bus, that I realized one important fact. I could have found the bus. I could have stepped on board. But I didn't have a single Brazilian coin to pay the R2,75 fare. 'Credito o debito' won't fly on a city bus.

Citibank Brasil, here we come!

Friday Afternoon

We three walk just steps away from the apartment to a convenient bus stop in order to board a bus that will take us to the movie. It's a gray day, one cool enough to wear a shirt with sleeves and jeans without misery. There are three umbrellas tucked into my bright yellow Sak backpack along with a light shawl. A week ago I used this same shawl to mop my face as we braved oven-like streets to the courthouse; now I might need it to fend off the damp, stiff breeze off the bay. Black and white mosaic sidewalks are wet and there are puddles in the gutters from last night's soaking rains. Buses queue up by twos and threes at this popular stop on Praia de Icarai, the boulevard named for the beach that borders it's west side.

Cecilia and Will find the right bus and we're part of a small but orderly crowd that boards. Cecilia first--trooper that she is, she takes the steep steps, and fits through a narrow red turnstile even with her blossoming Daniel belly. The man who's tending the turnstile is collecting fares. He prohibits my entry, holding the barrier as firmly as his face, until he sees that Will has the money for all three of us. We jerk to our seats as the bus starts.

This vehicle is not air conditioned, but it's clean and the day is very mild. My fellow passengers are getting off work a little early this Friday. Just a few have been to the beach or have been shopping in the neighborhood. Seated across the aisle and looking a little like Fernando Lamas, there's a handsome older gentleman with neatly trimmed grey hair and mustache. His round deep brown eyes never look from the floor. I wonder if he's sad or just at peace as we rock along. A trim young woman in a black knit dress boards at the next stop. How does she manage to sway so gracefully up the aisle of this moving bus in her straw wedged sandals? Will and Cecilia are situated together, talking, just like other pairs and couples here and there. As I absorb the soft sounds of Portuguese, my eyes start taking in the view from my window.

The bus picks up speed now that we've left the Icarai neighborhood of multi-storied beach-front apartments. Construction that choked the street last Saturday afternoon is now complete, and we move more quickly toward our destination. As we roll under an overpass, I'm surprised by graffitti tagged on a concrete retaining wall. A small, dramatic art exhibition is whizzing past my window. For a second, I think that maybe the city has commissioned the pieces to enliven this pale utilitarian area. But then I realize that it's the work of artists with multi-colored cans of spray paint and amazing flairs for large displays of untrained raw talent. Giant angry man breathes yellow haze. Black hieroglyphics undulate. Expressive red and blue figures fly past, attached to cartoon balloons.

Now we're making our way through a neighborhood whose small neat houses sit close to the road on both sides. A Coral Vine spills its pink and spring green over this fence. Aloe and spikey Yuccas are the next homeowner's choice. As I travel, fuschia Bouganvilla mingle with tropical yellow and orange and every shade of green imaginable. The bus bumps and turns as this Gringa tries to capture each new picture without a camera.

Transported back inside the bus, I check to make sure Cecilia and Will are still onboard. Of course, they wouldn't leave me sitting on the bus, but I feel as if I've left them for a short journey myself. When Will pulls the signal cord, we all stand, preparing to exit. We descend three steep metal steps, move to a wide blue-striped crosswalk, and wait for the traffic signal to cross this four-lane divided boulevard. Will explains that this area is both a bus and ferry terminal. Catch a passenger ferry here, and you make your way from Niteroi to Rio. Another day, I'm sure; but now we're on our way to see "Sherlock Holmes" at the Cinemark Theatre--in English--with Portuguese subtitles.

Daniel's Party

On Sunday afternoon, January 22,
Cecilia, Will, and I hosted a party for baby Daniel
here at their apartment.

We spent the morning baking all kinds of goodies.
Here Cecilia is beating a meringue to top the Cuca,
her Tia Alice's recipe.

This is the Cuca (KOO kah) ready for meringue.
It was made with 2 layers of ripe sliced bananas
alternated with 3 layers of a flour/leavening/spice mixture.
There were little globs of butter on each banana slice.
Had to close my mouth to keep from drooling! 

Here's the pretty hostess at the food table.
C made the Cuca, we worked together on Cowboy Cookies, and I made Banana Bread.
There were also sandwiches, dip, and plenty of fruit juices and waters.
Pretty flowers, right?  Those are in baby bottles, and they're called Copo de Leite
which means "Cup of Milk!"

The Host and Hostess
with part of the breath-taking view from their living room window.

Cecilia, Flora, Joao

Kitchen photos are the best, yes?
Here's (l-r) Cecilia, Flora, Dora, Joao, and Cecilia

The Gringa waiting for another batch of Cowboy Cookies to come out of the oven.
Drop cookies are a rare thing here, and everyone loved these, especially hot out of the oven.

Party fun, food, and falando (talking)

(l-r) with married couple Marcia and Tacio are Tacio's brother Andre, his girlfriend Andreia, and Will
Tacio and Andre are Tia Alice's sons/Cecilia's cousins.

Andre showed everyone some of his beautiful photos.

Cecilia with (l-r) mother Dora, aunts Tia Olga, Tia Alice, sister Flora

W and C opened a gift from Uncle Steve with a note to Daniel attached.
From a guy who's never without his shades, Daniel received a pair of Real Kid Shades
and an invitation to hang with Uncle Steve for fishing, running, and all the things little boys need to learn.

Cecilia's grade school friends (l-r) Ana Paula, Giovana, Melissa

C's best friend Valeria enjoyed watching her open a gift.
Tia Alice (CHEE ah  ah LEE see) looked at the clothes and toys that came from the States,
while packs of diapers piled up to the right of the piano. 

Cecilia's cousin Elisa (ah LEE za) painted this wooden diaper holder.
Luey's bear (between W and C) joined the party.
BTW--I'm in love with all the beautiful names.

All the females at the party guessed the circumference of C's belly,
and measured out the guesses with lengths of toilet paper.

Then the measuring began.
Joao and his mom Flora were the measuring team.

Dear friend Valeria eyeballed her guess on her own tiny self
as Tia Alice looked on. 

Who knows better than Mamae (muh MAIE)?!
So far, Dora has the winning guess.

Party-goers wait for the next measurement.
C's cousin Andre, at the window, took pictures of the sunset on this pretty afternoon.

Ana Paula, friend for more than 20 years, guessed right on the money!

Dora playfully protested the measurement.

Cecilia with the winner and the runner-up.

Cecilia's nephew Joao announced the winners with bravado,
and handed each a bag of treasured Cowboy Cookies.

Flora was in charge of recording everyone's guess for the date of Daniel's appearance.
She collected cash for the betting pool as well while Melissa, Joao, and her friend Raquel checked it out.

The earliest guess was January 23--the next day!
The latest guess is February 20.  We all hope this guess is not correct!
There's a full moon on February 7th--how can Daniel resist?

Meanwhile, outside the window . . .

. . . the sun set over Christ the Redeemer (background center l),
The Sleeping Giant (background center r),
and Praia de Icarai.

Que Lindo!

"Day is done, gone the sun."

Christ the Redeemer reaches for the clouds.
"All is well, safely rest.  God is nigh."

Our Visitor

All 3 of us shut down early Wednesday evening, succumbing to a whirlwind week that included my international flight and welcome dinner, 3 parties, and a wedding. For the past two days I had vowed that I would not sit down and rest unless Cecilia did. And she didn't, until Wednesday evening. (That nesting instinct is pretty strong.)

When we all started stirring from our semi-comas (a state of sleep, not a punctuation mark), the two cats were going crazier than usual in the living room. See, one of their favorite evening past times is stalking the few tiny insects that are drawn through the open windows to the lamp light. (I want to mention that I have yet to see a mosquito, and have not been bothered day or night by anything other than a mild heat rash. Is that tmi?) But I digress.

Cautious Jewel was gladly standing guard as wing man (wing kitty?) while alpha cat Q was jumping about 5 feet off the floor onto the curtain. When Cecilia and Will investigated the scene, the furry dynamic duo stared at both the curtain and ceiling with laser intensity. C and W discovered a butterfly clinging to the curtain that Q had attempted to scale.

Can you see the butterfly, with wings folded?

Will reached up and it crawled onto his fingers.

Ten o'clock on a Wednesday night, and a Monarch butterfly made a house call to the 11th floor apartment of Cecilia and Will Bingham!

The butterfly settled on the windowsill.
The lights of Niteroi are reflected in the bay outside.

Now at 38 weeks, Cecilia is 'great with child.' Daniel has hiccupped and stretched himself into position; pre-labor contractions cause C to pause from time to time; Mommy and Daddy have feathered the nest; hospital bags are not by the door, but nearly complete; and the taxi service number is on cell phone speed dial. That sense of anxious awe and anticipation has settled over all of us while we wait. And God sent a persistent little messenger who refused to be shooed out the window. Instead, he climbed onto Will's finger and even floated over to the sign from Daniel's party that says, "WELCOME BABY DANIEL REESE MAIA BINGHAM."

Since he wouldn't leave via the window, and seemed content on Will's hand, Cecilia suggested we take him downstairs to be released. I got a glass jar to cover the critter, who rested and stretched his distinctive rust and black patterned wings calmly. Will carried the bright evangelist downstairs in the elevator, and released him into a bed of neon orange flowers just out front.

I'm reminded by our little visitor that God is in control of everything. He cares enough about this young couple to lift their eyes and their hearts with a creature that weighs less than a whisper. God knitted Daniel together in his mother's womb, as the psalm writer says (Psalm 139), and He is already right in the middle of all our tomorrows--and Daniel's too.

Brazilian Portuguese, Part 1

Rosetta Stone Level One gave me a start on Brazilian Portuguese with basics like boy, girl, man, woman, baby, cat, dog, horse, chicken, park, bridge, street, restaurant, office, house, apartment, car, chair, table, bed, bathroom. Food words: water, juice, milk, eggs, bread, meat, fish, breakfast, lunch, dinner. Verbs like to be, walk, run, eat, drink, cook, work, play, read, write, speak, swim are tucked away in my brain as well. Numbers one through 60, question words like who, what, when, where, why. Where do you live? Are you hungry? Are you thirsty?

Statements that have come in very handy:
"Disculpe"
"Excuse me."

"Prazer" or "Muito prazer"
"Pleasure to meet you."

"Como vai?"
"How are you?/How's it going?"

"Tudo?"
"How's everything?"

"Tudo bom, e voce?" or "Tudo. Voce?"
"Everything's good, and you?"

"Bom/Bem, obrigada. Voce?"
"Good/Well, thanks. And you?"

"Obrigada" or just "brigada" (use the 'a' on the end if your a female; use an 'o' if male)
"Thank you."

"Bom Dia" "Boa Tarde" "Boa Noite"
"Good Morning/Afternoon/Evening."

These phrases have helped me try to express the warmth and openness of my new Brazilian acquaintances and family, but the Gringa wanted to share a few of my favorite words and phrases that I've learned since I arrived in Brazil 9 days ago. Pay attention, those of you who may be coming down in April for the church wedding celebration!

"Eu falo Portuguese como uma crianca de dois anos."
"I speak Portuguese like a two-year-old child."

"Credito o debito?"
"Credit or debit?"

"Eu tenho muito suor"
"I'm sweating a lot."
(Of course, context and other visual clues generally make it unnecessary to use this.)

"Isto ventilador e meu amigo."
"This electric fan is my friend."

"Eu quer suco de melancia com um poco hortela, por favor."
"I need/want watermelon juice with a little mint, please."
(Yes! It's fresh squeezed, and de-licious!!)

Just thought you might like to begin practicing. Bom Dia! Tchau!

Friday, January 20, 2012

The Civil Ceremony

Will and Cecilia wanted to have
a civil marriage ceremony
before their church wedding celebration
scheduled for April 28, 2012.

Tia Olga listens intently as the JP begins
promptly at 2 PM on Friday, January 20th.

Cecilia aglow.

The ceremony was in Portuguese, of course;
and Will speaks the language very well.
When the JP asked Will if he was marrying
of his own free will, it was a Portuguese phrase
that Will hadn't heard before.  ("Portuguese Legalese," Helio said.)
  His hesitation was followed by a little interpretation
and then his quick affirmation!

There was the kiss . . .

 . . . and the celebratory cheer.

Then everyone began to sign the official document.
First Cecilia Garcia Maia Bingham,

with her Calla Lilies or Copo de Leite (KO poh  dje LAY che).

Then William Reese Bingham--
A name that ties the tongues of most.
(More about that later.)

Cecilia's brother Helio (A lyo) was one of the witnesses.
Cecilia's sister Flora, nephew Joao, and Tia Olga look on.

Cecilia's mother Dora, the second witness, signs carefully.

The new Mr. and Mrs. Bingham examine their certificate.

Will and Cecilia at the Courthouse in Niteroi.

Cecilia is not sleeping, but Will definitely has stars in his eyes!

The Wedding 'Parade'

Helio descends the courthouse stairs and dances into the afternoon heat,
while Flora, Will, and Cecilia chat and walk.

In front of Will, Cecilia, Flora and Joao
are Dora, Helio, and Helio's girlfriend (Maria) Cecilia.

Will helps Cecilia change from her pumps to some sparkly sandals
for our walk to the restaurant.

The wedding parade pauses briefly for Tia Olga to find
just the right plastic envelope for the certificate.
Tia Olga, cousin Marcia, Flora, Helio and Cecilia
all cheer when the sought-after cover is found.

The certificate is now safe.

Everyone but Joao tries to walk in the shade of a Brazilian summer afternoon.
They keep asking, "This is hotter than Texas, right?"
But actually it's not.  Right now, the temps are very similar to EARLY Summer
in South Texas.  It's just as humid too.

The shade-seekers parade continues for several blocks,
to a really nice Italian Restaurant.

The Family Meal

counter-clockwise from left:
Marcia,  Joao, Helio, (Maria) Cecilia, Dora, Will, Cecilia
me (SAN gee in Portuguese!), Flora, Olga, Tacio
The name 'Sandra' is spelled and pronounced just the same in both languages.
I may finally be using my given name!

Dora and the bouquet.

Cecilia's brother Helio and his girlfriend Cecilia.

Cecilia's nephew (Flora's son) Joao hams it up.

Flora, Tia Olga, and Tia Alice's son Tacio with his wife Marcia.

The ring pose!

C's engagement ring and bands made specially for them.

Flora made this headband for Cecilia.

The happy Mrs. Bingham!

Flora and I talk lots, because she speaks very good English.
Helio and his Cecilia also enjoy practicing their fluent
English skills.  So, with those 3 plus Cecilia and Will,
I never feel left out of the conversation.
Can I say how bad my Portuguese is?!!!!

Ana Paula is a good friend of Cecilia's from grade school.

Let the toasts begin.
DISCURSO! (DJIZ KOR ZOO)

Will toasts in Portuguese, to the delight of everyone.

The new Mrs. Bingham shares a toast,
as do the old Mrs. Bingham and C's mom. 

Will and Joao have a great relationship.

Will settling the bill.

The Walk

After our meal, we all walk through the streets of Niteroi
to a park with some breath-taking gardens.

Dora has stopped at this statue of Mary to pray for Cecilia, Will and Daniel
for a long time.  She wants to lay Cecilia's flowers there
in front of the statue and pray with Cecilia and Will.

It's a very tender moment.

Just across the street from this very large public park
is a beautiful church, whose bells are ringing as we approach
the statue of Mary.

On our stroll back to the Bingham's apartment,
I enjoy the gardens maintained in this public park.

A Family Photo
r-l: Flora, Dora, Cecilia, Joao, Will, Helio, Cecilia

(Maria) Cecilia and Helio

The family that plays together . . .

What a magnificent tree!

Family Photo, too

Take a bow, Mrs. Bingham!