Rio 3

Down two blocks and around the corner, our next destination was the building constructed from 1880 to 1906 to house the former Commercial Association (now Banco do Brasil).

Banco do Brasil
emblem on a window

This is the side of the Banco do Brasil building.

Wrought Iron and Granite

Banco do Brasil Lobby is ornate with marble and iron.

This elegant structure still contains bank offices, but has been renovated to become Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil.  On its five floors you'll find halls for all manner of art and culture: performing arts, cinema, literature, and fine art exhibitions like this--

One hall contained the
paintings, engravings, sketches, photos, and memorabilia
of Tarsila do Amaral, an important female modern artist from the 1920's and beyond. 

Rotunda
Can you see the metal and glass tables
suspended from cables?
Possibly a random exhibit? . . . .

The Rotunda floor of the Banco do Brasil building used to be the trading floor of the stock exchange.  This Saturday it was filled with a temporary dark grey metal structure--a theater-in-the-round.  It looked a little like one of those giant balls from the circus where the motorcyclists go round and round at daring speeds.  Looking through the structure to the interior of the theater, I could see the platform stage and grey pillows all around the outside grid wall for seating.  Didn't get a picture; that's a shame.

While walking through the marble lobby to a bank of elevators, I could imagine all the suited, wing-tipped bankers and financiers who must have frequented that very space.  Cigarette smoke and felted hats would have floated through the lobby along with financial news of the day.  When we called an elevator to go to the second floor exhibit, I was in for a delightful surprise.

An Elevator Operator!!

When was the last time you saw an elevator operator?  I'm guessing it might have been at least 50 years ago for me.  On the way up, I asked the lady if I could take her picture.  She said no.  Not sure if she was telling me there were no cameras allowed in the exhibit, or that she didn't want her picture taken; but I honored her response.  On our ride down, this pleasant lady (above) was happy to accommodate.  Look at those elegant mirrors and polished brass.  It may have been one of the high points of the day for me, simple Gringa that I am.

Ornate Marble Columns and Rotunda Clock from Second Floor Balcony

The Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil (CCBB) was bustling on this Saturday morning.  Groups of school youth milled about in the Tarsila exhibit, scribbling notes in small spiral notebooks.  Young mothers with curly-headed preschool daughters enjoyed a snack at the Coffee Bar in the Lobby.  At a bistro table in the Bookstore, a bristle-bearded photographer hunched over his camera, previewing and documenting images as his coffee grew cold.  Clad in black t-shirts and jeans, the theater-in-the-round stage crew arrived to begin preparations for their matinee.  Ever-present dark-suited security personel stood quietly surveying each face in the crowds.  Nara, Vania, and I had a great visit to the CCBB.  Now it was time to move on to our next tour stop.

As we walked through the lobby of CCBB, I saw a table set with copies of the shapes of the Tarsila do Amaral paintings.  Some were on felt board, and some were simply raised lines on foam core.  With the help of a docent, the children seated there were experiencing modern art in a different dimension.  There were even black goggles on the table for those who wanted to feel the art without seeing it.  Pretty cool.

Modern Art Experience

 The morning was breezy and bright as we three stepped out of CCBB onto the sidewalk and resumed our guided walking tour.  Next door to CCBB stands the Post and Telegraph building.

Mailbox

We walked past some beautiful churches.  Even on the street, there is art to be enjoyed.

One of two statues
flanked broad ornate wooden doors
to a church.

Another figure greets people
on the sidewalk outside this church.

 We didn't take time to enter the church where these statues were.  Nara wanted me to see an old pharmacy which is now a great retail space for Granado products.  (It's great when retail therapy mingles with history and culture, you know!)

Engraved White Soap Heart in Granado's window
is probably 8" wide.
It's suspended in a heart-shaped ivy wreath.

Welcome!  Hola!
These orchids greeted us just inside the door.

The Granado Pharmacy opened in January, 1870 in this space.
This plaque commemorates its 50th year in 1920.

Vania is drawn to colorful soaps and colognes.

Cabinets that housed medicines 130 years ago
now hold Granado soaps, lotions, and fragrances for people, home, (and pets!?)
along with pharmacy memorabilia.

We spent lots of time at the Granado store!

Back outside, Nara led Vania and me to our next destination--The Old Cathedral of Rio de Janeiro.  The Gringa will show lots and lots of pictures of this amazing 300 year-old church in my next blog.  But for now, enjoy a picture of one of the cobblestone streets in Rio's Centro.

Follow the Cobblestone Street